• Ji Chong
  • November 13, 2018

The Chemistry of Cosmetics - Worst

The Chemistry of Cosmetics - Worst

Have you thought about why my skin hasn't got better even though I'm using the best product(s) everybody's raved about? This article may give you an answer that what ingredients counteract each other especially in skincare products.

Director Pi(Creative Director, Youtuber & Cosmetics Ingredient Analyst) has listed these topics 'Dos and Don'ts of Mixing Cosmetics' on her blog and I'd like to talk about the products don't go well together first, which is related to previous blog(Get It Beauty Whitening Essence Winner).

If you don't use right the 'it' ingredient whatever it's for anti-aging or whitening, it can be harmful to the skin (inactivate the effects and possible skin irritation) so here are 8 examples that shouldn't be mixed and matched with one another. (other 2 examples are for hair products and will be listed when I post 'Get It Beauty' Hair Products Winner)

1. Face Lift/Toning Device VS Functional cosmetics
Electrical vibration stimulates skin deep inside to promote collagen and reduce fine lines & wrinkles, however can cause redness, mild swelling as well as oversensitivity of treated area - following functional(whitening & anti-wrinkle) cosmetics can make skin condition worse.
Ex) LG PraL Total Lift Up or Clarisonic Smart Profile Uplift VS Labno Idebenone Cream

(*Idebenone, powerful anti-aging ingredient is more stable than retinol but still can react to light & heat)

• Other anti-wrinkle ingredients: Adenosine, Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Polyethoxylated Retinamide
Whitening: Arbutin, Niacinamide, Alpha-bisabolol, Methyl ascorbyl ether, Ascorbyl Glucoside
These functional ingredients containing products not to be used with Beauty Device at the same time.


2.Moisturizing Sunscreen VS Gel Type Cream
These products do not go well together. If you use moisturizing sunscreen over gel-textured cream, the products will pile up and get rubbed off.

Polymer, Carbomer and Hexandiol etc,. these thickening agents don't sink, resulting to disturb applying foundation application, too.


Ex)Labno Safe Tone Up Sunscreen(contains C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) VS Real Barrier Aqua Soothing Gel Cream
(The result may differ depends on skin condition, however not recommend this combination)

3.Physical Sunscreen VS Highly Acidic(low pH) Cleansing Foam
Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide, the main ingredient of physical sunscreen can not be perfectly removed.

Ex. Innisfree The Minimum Suncream/ Dr .G Mild Physical Sunscreen VS Senka Perfect Whip Facial Wash

4. Sebum Controlling Products VS Pore Mask
Sebum controlling(to combat excess oil) and pore mask pack combination? It removes too much sebum and make your skin dry from inside even though you have oily skin. Recommend use this once or twice a week.

Ex. U:re Skin Egg Plant Master All-in-one Toner VS Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask

5. Moisturizing + Whitening + Anti-wrinkle Cream
Don't over do it with too many products - Should choose one product that you wish to focus on. Layering moisturizers can be beneficial for mature/dry skin however it leads to skin problems and block the product absorption.

Ex. Hidden Lab Open your Ice Cream(Hydrating) VS Lagom White Moisture Cream(Whitening) VS Lab No Idebenone Cream(Anti-wrinkle)

6. Vitamin C VS AHA/BHA(exfoliators)
These combination which used to lighten the skin could possibly intensify the darkness in a hyper-pigmented area because they increase photosensitivity which can irritate the skin.

Ex. Manyo Factory Vitamin C Serum VS Ducray Kara cnyl Control Cream


7. Retinol(Vitamin A) VS Sunscreen/Ethanol/AHA,BHA
Too much drying for the skin, use alternately or use AHA(also good for acne) as a spot treatment then use retinol on the entire face.
If you use retinol and daily SPF, it enhances cell turnover and thus makes skin more prone to UV radiation. Best option? retinol is applied at night and SPF in the morning.

Ex1.Life Flo Health Retinol 1% Cream/Stieva-A Cream/Innisfree Truecare CICA Intensive Balm VS Cell Fusion C Tre.AC Clear Sunscreen, Etude House UV Double Cut Fresh Sun Gel, HanYul Mentha Trouble Spot Gel (these are contains ethanol)
*Stieva-A Cream (contains Tretinoin - Vitamin derivative, should use at night)
Ducraly Kara Cnyl Control Cream (contains AHA,BHA)

8. AHA/BHA VS Exfoliators(scrubs, peeling gel/pads)
Most of trouble-care cosmetics contains AHA, BHA, Menthol, Peppermint Oil & Tea Tree Oil likely facial exfoliants include Houttuynia Powder, Heartleaf Houttuynia Extract, Walnut Extract, Coconut, Sugar and Willow Bark Extract - these cannot be used together.

Ex. Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting AHA Gel (or BHA Liquid) VS Skinfood Coconut Sugar Mask/ Detclear Bright & Peel Jelly/ Round Lab 1025 Dokdo Toner(contains sugar cane)/ Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Spot Serum (sugar cane)/ Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair(Bifida Ferment Lysate)/ SK-II Fcial Treatment Essence(Galactomyces Fermented Extract)


<Top 10 ingredients to avoid if have sensitive skin>
1. Niacinamide, Arbutin (whitening ingredients)
2. Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Adenosine (anti-wrinkle)
3. AHA/BHA
4. Vitamin C
5. Vitamin A, Tretinoin
6. High concentrations of Fermented Extract (treatment essence, Galactomyces)
7. Aroma(Aromatherapy) Oil (lavender oil, bergamot oil) - purpose of scent
8. Naturally-derived oil(Essential Oil) - helpful & effective, can be toxic or allergic reation
9. Silicon Oil, Beeswax, Petrolatum, Mineral Oil and Shea Butter
10. High concentrations of Stearic Acid & Citric Acid - block pores

<TOP 10 products to avoid if have sensitive skin>
1. Functional(whitening & anti-wrinkle) Mask Pack
2. Contouring(Shading)
3. Blush
4. Matte Foundation & Cushion
5. Water-proof Sunscreen
6. Lifting Device
7. AHA/BHA containing Cleansing Oil
8. Alkaline Soap/Cleanser
9. Exfoliants
10. Nose Packs(Strips)
These are cannot be used on daily base.

Too much warning for sensitive skin?^^;; It takes time to get a healthy, flawless skin and also figure out what ingredients/products suit our own skin type is an long-term project. Direct Pi says it took almost 20years to analyze her skin and become like this perfect skin (you will see on her video's on youtube ).
(ps. The products mentioned above, Director Pi's recommendations)

Keep trying - the effort will be paid off^^

Thanks for reading~

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